Washing machines are only as good as their individual parts. When the washing drum becomes loose it may seem like a contractor is needed to fix the machine, but that’s not always the case. Any washing machine owner can fix a loose washing machine drum and tighten it by themselves without wasting too much time and energy on it.
Here’s a little guidance on how to tighten washing machine drum right:
1. Check The Levelling Of Your Unit
All washing machines should be leveled and balanced—either according to the surface they are sitting on or according to the locknuts (adjustable knobs on the base of the legs of the machine) otherwise, they will tend to shake and vibrate unusually.
Stop the machine, re-level according to the instructions given. Then re-start the cycle and observe it for a few rounds to make sure it doesn’t shift off-base again.
How to Tighten Washing Machine Drum
Now that you know that the washing machine drum is loose, here’s how to fix it.
This is a simple enough task, one that requires no tools or expertise. Start by placing a spirit leveler on top of the washer or worktop (this has to be a flat surface), in a way that it points left to right.
Then proceed to loosen the locknuts, which are placed under the machine’s legs, and adjust them by turning them counterclockwise. As you tighten and loosen the nuts, the bubble in the spirit leveler will eventually indicate that the unit is leveled.
Keep in mind, all four legs need to be in contact with the floor at all times. These can usually be adjusted just by twisting them around with our hands and fingers. If this doesn’t help, then you can always use a crowbar to prop-up the machine and move the locknuts with the help of a wrench.
Level the surface
The problem can sometimes be very basic. For example, if the very floor on which the machine is placed isn’t a flat surface and even, then you can you can insert a ply board underneath the appliance —propping the machine on secondary surface which is plain. Choose a ply that is at least three-fourth of an inch thick, so that it can carry the weight of a full load.
If the surface is tilted, slide a board, vinyl sheet or ply on the downward slope, levelling the tilt. You can make simple make-shift shims out of scrap plastic, rubber mats and even composite foam to place under the locknuts which are off-balance. You can use this method to level your unit even if the locknuts/screws have become unusable due to damage or wear and tear.
Unsure of the degree to which the floor is sloped? Use a spirit level to get it just right.
2. Control The Load Of The Machine
Every machine has its limits and the same goes for your washing machines as well. If you own a front load washer, it is advised not to fill it to the brim with clothes, rather packing it loosely so that the water can move easily. By filling the washing machine drum completely with clothes, the load doesn’t spin and move properly, reducing the machine’s life.
While spinning, if the quantity of the clothes is correct, the machine still rattles, you need to stop the machine, open the drum and even out the formation of clothes. Try to get the clothes into a compact, leveled formation, then re-start the spin, and keep a close check on the drum.
During both the wash and dry cycle, heavy fabric like jeans and jackets tend to force the drum to lean on one side. Even a tilt because of heavy clothing can be the reason behind a rattling washing machine drum or a machine that ‘walks’. It’s important to club clothes of similar weight together so that the weight is evenly distributed, making sure that the drum is never in contact with the inner walls of the machine.
3. Removing The Shipping Bolts
Step 1: Perform a Simple Test
- Before you try to find the location of the shipping bolt, you need to perform a simple test in order to be sure that the shipping bolts were not removed during installation.
- Open the washer door and press the bottom edge of the stainless-steel basket while firmly applying pressure. If the basket moves about slightly downward and springs back on its own, then the shipping bolts have been removed. But, if there is zero flexibility and no movement, then the shipping bolts are intact and need to be dismantled.
Step 2: Remove the Bolts
- If the bolts have not been removed, then on the back wall of the unit you will see four to five bolts (depending on the model) with plastic spacers. These bolts have to be removed for proper installation and usage. You can use a wrench or a socket to twist and loosen the bolts and then remove them by pulling them out from the washer.
- After removal, keep these safe since they can be reused if the unit needs to be shipped elsewhere. There are pre-attached white caps (right above the bolt holes) which can be used to cover-up the shipping bolt holes.
- If you are not confident about removing the shipping bolts on your own, it is a good idea to get professional help.
4. Check Internal Parts That May Cause The Washing Machine Drum To Agitate For Damage
There are several parts of the machine that help regulate the movement of the drum. These are crucial to the functioning of the washing machine.
The components that you need to be a perfect fit if you need the unit to move flawlessly are as follows:
1) Shock Absorbers
If your machine is a front load, then it is most probably contains one or more shock absorbers. These shock absorbers are between the base frame and the outer tub. You need to keep checking these from time to time, making sure they are not leaking fluid. If even one of the shock absorbers malfunctions, it is advisable to have all of them replaced.
2) Suspension Springs
Both top and front loaders have several suspension springs. This holds the tub to the base or suspends the tub from the top. Make sure each of these is connected. None of the springs should be loose and if even one is damaged, all should be replaced.
3) Snubber Ring
Made up of either plastic or felt, these provide a cushiony base for the tub of a top loader. When these wear out, the tub starts touching the metal base below. Dust on a plastic snubber or clumps on the snubber are signs that the ring is wearing out. You should replace it immediately. You will have to remove the suspension springs to replace the snubber, so it’s ideal to check both together.
4) Dampening Straps
Machines have four dampening straps, holding the washer tub to each of the four corners of the machine. If even one of them fails, the machine will start to wobble and vibrate. They need to be replaced even if one is damaged.
5) Driver Bearings
Some machines have ball bearings between the tub spindle and the motor shafts. If the casing wears out, the bearings become dislodged and the tub will vibrate. This is a major repair and will require a considerable amount of disassembly of the unit. It is better to replace the entire unit if the bearings are worn. Do not attempt a makeshift repair or replacement of just the bearings.
everal components in a washing machine are devoted to controlling the movement and vigor at which your washing machine moves. Peeping into a front-load washer will help determine the speed at which the drum inside is spinning.
All of these components are the internal organs of the unit and are highly sensitive. It is advisable to try all the other options. These include a list of external and generic reasons for a drum vibrating. So before you try and fidget with it, you should consider replacing it with genuine parts.